Mixed Bag





Steve Reiter (2008)

Here are some scattered notes and comments from today.

I didn’t shoot very well in today’s 2700. All my scores were down at the low-end of where I’ve been shooting. The bad news is this was an Authorized match and the scores count so I’ll be in Outdoor Sharpshooter land for a while. The good news is that’s where I *should* be competing, that’s where I *need* to be working, and doing the things I did today (shooting, not quitting, re-focusing on basics) is what will *eventually* let me learn what I need to know to advance. Patience!

Clarence, to my immediately left, had a squib but caught it immediately. Other than the round stuck in the barrel, there was no damage to his 1911. (I think he was shooting the gun later in the match but I didn’t confirm that.) He shot well in spite of that incident (and whipped me by 100 points — way to go, Clarence!).

Steve Reiter, Senior US Champion many times over, was scoring my 45 targets. I let that get to me on the first two Slow Fire targets and butchered them both, scoring only in the low 70s with not one hole in the black on the second of the two. Ugh!

But then I re-focused all my attention back into my shot plan by meticulously following each step and, I’m pleased to say, resurrected myself on the first SF of the NMC with all shots in the black. TF and RF thereafter weren’t great but they were tolerable, mostly in the mid-90s.

I fired some carefully reloaded Aguilla brass in Slow Fire after making them specially for today and making doubly certain to fully seat all the primers. Even so, I had nine high primers in the 60 rounds in Slow Fire over CF and 45. For TF and RF, I switched to reloads in Starline using the same batch of primers but had no problems — no high primers. So, something is decidedly wrong with Aguilla brass.

But I still have mixed feelings about discarding it.

On the down side, the high primers cannot all be detected by vision or touch. I’ve had several shooters try and we all failed to spot several high primers. So the bottom line is if I shoot the Aguilla brass, some “thunks” will happen.

But on the plus side, if I restrict its use to Slow Fire only, shooting it is a great “ball and dummy” drill; and brother does it show me I have a problem when I think there’s a live round in the chamber.

(Jerk!)

Dry firing alone just isn’t solving my “jerk” problem so, for the time being at least, I think I will continue reloading and shooting the Aguilla “Surprise” ammo, but only in Slow Fire of course. And quite frankly if the high primers continue long enough for me to learn the lesson of how *not* to jerk, that would be fabulous.

So, looking forward, we shoot a “Camp Perry Warm-up” next Sunday starting at 7:30AM.

I’ll be the jerk with the high primers in Slow Fire … but not for too much longer if this works.

See you on the line.

Hot Stuff!

In the chronographing of various ammunitions and guns a few days ago I recorded the following five-shot string:

1 830.7
2 917.1
3 932.0
4 954.6
5 905.5

Notice anything interesting?

Well yes, the velocities are relatively low. The ammunition was RWS Subsonic and the gun was a Smith & Wesson Model 41 with the seven (7) inch barrel, but that’s not what caught my eye.

Let me add that, before the fifth and final shot, there was a delay of almost a minute. And it was relatively chilly that morning with temperature in the mid-50s, rainy at times, misty when not, and with a gusty wind that quickly drew away body heat.

What you may notice is what I did, that as the string progressed, the velocities went up and up. Then, on the last shot where I delayed before firing, the velocity dropped back down again.

I think these changes are due to the temperature of the ammunition, starting with a cold gun and chamber but with each successive shot warmed in the chamber from the heat left from the previous shot. And when I delayed before the last shot, the gun quickly cooled in the misty, breezy conditions to account for the reduced velocity of the last shot.

When shooting in competition, many have commented that their ammunition seems to be rather temperature sensitive. This comes to my mind when my Smith & Wesson 41 doesn’t cycle the next round properly. Be it a failure to extract, a stove pipe or the next round getting stuck halfway into the chamber, it seems that when the ammunition is cold these types of failures seem to be more common.

So on cold days I load the magazines for the next target and tuck them under my jacket and arm while scoring the previous target. That way, when I’m ready to shoot the next target, the ammo and magazine are nice and warm.

And I’ve often wondered, just how much difference is this making?

And from that, just how sensitive is my 41 to changes in velocity?

Since the above data suggested I was seeing this very effect that day, I devised a small experiment on the spot to try and quantify it.

Here’s the plan I created. It consists of two parts.

I would fire two groups of ten shots each, the first with a cold gun, ammunition and magazine for each shot, and the second where each was warm.

For the cold group, I would lay the pistol — the 41 — on the table along with the magazine and, spread out nearby, the ten rounds with lots of space inbetween. I would then wait a full minute to let everything cool.

I would then load one round into the magazine, ready the gun and fire, remove the magazine and lay them both back on the table. I would then note the velocity on the chrony’s display, look at the clock and finally wait sixty (60) seconds before repeating this “load and fire one shot” process.

Next, I would fire the warm group.

For the warm group, I would prepare and then hold a single magazine with ten (10) rounds along with another magazine with five (5) rounds under my arm for ten minutes (while shooting the cold string). The five round string would, hopefully, warm the gun for the following ten round string where I would record the “warm” velocities.

Following that plan, here are the “cold” and “warm” results I recorded:

Cold Warm
1 888.5 900.9
2 898.9 943.3
3 881.7 913.4
4 889.2 951.8
5 931.4 942.9
6 900.9 922.4
7 859.1 927.1
8 884.2 937.8
9 886.6 n.a.
10 n.a. n.a.
Minimum 859.1 900.9
Average 891.2 930.0
Maximum 931.4 951.8
Spread 72.3 50.9
Std.Dev. 19.3 17.2

(The “n.a.” values occurred in the middle of the strings when a particularly dark cloud blocked the sun and the chrony displayed “Err 2″ meaning the second sensor had not recorded the passage of the bullet.)

Clearly, this shows that the warm ammunition in a warm magazine that is fired from a warmed chamber is not only faster by about 5%, but that is also is slightly more consistent in velocity (standard deviation of 17.2 versus the cold’s 19.3).

I am presuming, of course, that higher velocity means the recoil force will be larger and that, at least in my case, that difference accounts for the more reliable cycling with the warmer ammo.

Also “of course”, how this translates into accuracy on the target is a different matter. But in my quest to find ammunition and gun combinations that are both reliable and accurate, the former is a lot easier to determine.

And here we can see that temperature is significant.

Here, we can see a 5% change in muzzle velocity solely due to that one factor.

And in my quest for “reliable and accurate”, what this really does is widen, not narrow, my search.

Now that I know that ammunition that doesn’t have enough oomph to cycle the slide when cold may, if treated to some body heat, “warm” to the occasion, I also know that more brands of ammunition may work in my 41.

A little warmth and care can work wonders.

Hug a bullet today!

22 Ammo Chrono Tests

I chrono’d some 22 ammunition in two guns today. Specifically, I wanted to understand why one gun likes CCI Standard Velocity but jams on Federal Gold Medal Match 711B, and the second gun does the opposite.

Here are the raw results:

Velocity (ft/sec)
S&W 41 S&W 41 Ruger III Ruger III
CCI SV Fed 711B CCI SV Fed 711B
1 944.7 993.9 915.1 935.1
2 949.1 1001.0 858.3 927.1
3 970.4 1004.0 889.2 955.7
4 989.0 1018.0 911.2 904.0
5 949.2 1021.0 898.6 900.7
6 949.0 971.8 920.5 929.3
7 963.9 1017.0 921.5 904.7
8 965.9 1009.0 n.a. 975.5
9 947.1 1022.0 n.a. 966.0
10 n.a. 1044.0 n.a. 964.2
Min. 944.7 971.8 858.3 900.7
Avg. 958.7 1010.2 902.1 936.2
Max. 989.0 1044.0 921.5 975.5
Var. 44.3 72.2 63.2 74.8
S.D. 14.8 19.4 22.6 27.9

First, the Smith & Wesson Model 41 likes CCI Standard Velocity as many owners know. This is the ammunition recommended by Smith & Wesson. And as you can see from the above data, when the Federal Gold Medal Match 711B ammunition is fired through that gun, the muzzle velocity averages about 50 ft/sec faster (958.7 CCI SV versus 1010.2 for Federal 711B).

And conversely, my Ruger Mk III prefers the Federal ammunition but jams on the CCI. Again, comparing the muzzle velocities in that gun, the CCI is about 35 ft/sec slower (902.1 versus 936.2). Ruger suggests using standard to higher velocity ammunition in this gun and my observed reliability versus the muzzle velocities seem to bear this out.

Note the final “S.D.” (Standard Deviation) row. It is generally thought that a lower Standard Deviation will result in less variation from shot to shot in terms of reliability of function.

This data suggests that, in each gun, the CCI Standard Velocity ammunition has less variation in muzzle velocity from shot to shot. But in the Ruger, that lower variability is obviated by the lesser reliability.

Another interesting effect is barrel length. The S&W has a seven inch (7″) barrel whereas the Ruger’s is five and a half inches (5.5″) long. That extra inch and a half appears to impart an additional 50 ft/sec to the CCI bullet, and even more with the Federal, another 75 ft/sec. (Ammunition manufacturers measure muzzle velocities in a 21″ rifle barrel hence their even greater published velocities.)

But does that extra 5% muzzle velocity help? Does the bullet fly straighter? Is it deflected less by the wind? Does the spinning bullet maintain its stable flight longer because of it?

This data also suggests that the pressure curve of the CCI ammunition is possibly sharper and an increase in barrel length imparts less additional velocity than the possibly slower powder — producing a broader pressure curve, perhaps — of the Federal ammunition where a longer barrel is able to use that extended pressure buildup.

Imagining an even longer barrel, we might even surmise that the burn rate and pressure curve in a short barrel might result in muzzle velocities that are challenging to infer from manufacturer’s measured velocities from 21″ barrels. Longer barrels do result in high muzzle velocities, this is true, but the data gathered here suggests that the Federal would continue to lengthen its lead in velocity over the CCI. And that in turn suggests that if there is a magic “feet per inch” velocity for a given gun, then the only way to find it is to try brands of ammunition that suggest they might fall in the appropriate range.

Ultimately of course, the real question is which ammunition is both reliable and accurate in each respective gun.

I have reliable ammunition for each gun and, from the measured differences in muzzle velocity and the effect that has on recoil and, therefore, the strength of the recoil spring in each of these two guns, I think I understand what’s happening.

And it’s probably true that the S&W Model 41 would shoot with similar reliability with just about any brand of ammunition with similar characteristics to CCI Standard Velocity. And for the Ruger, the extra oomph in the Federal Gold Medal Match 711B sets the mark when shopping for ammunition for that gun.

That’ll have to wait for another day.

 

Oh, one additional note.

I also tested some of the paper boxed CCI Standard Velocity and, lo and behold, it resulted in significantly different muzzle velocities from the plastic boxed CCI Standard Velocity (whose results appear above). In a nutshell, the paper boxed ammunition was an average of 60 ft/sec faster than that in the plastic box, and was therefore even “hotter” in the S&W 41 than the Federal Gold Medal Match 711B.

Although not tested, this suggests that the paper boxed CCI Standard Velocity ammunition might be a viable candidate for testing in the Ruger which prefers these higher velocities whereas the S&W 41 prefers the plastic boxed ammo.

So the next time the grocery clerk asks if you prefer paper or plastic, the answer just might be, “Ruger or Smith?”

Made 1,000 Rounds of Wad Today

My usual quota is 300 rounds in an evening but, starting about 2:00PM today and with two television breaks and another for dinner, I finished 1,000 rounds about 7:00PM. That includes setting the OAL (1.240″), crimp (0.469″) and throw (3.8 gr. Hodgdon’s Clays) for the 200 gr. LSWC X-Caliber 0.452″ bullets, pulling the crank to load them, and then boxing and labelling the result, and finally putting everything away and covering the machine. [Phew!]

Doing the math, I produced 200 rounds per hour. That’s not very fast.

But there are reasons for this, and they are very good reasons.

First of all, you don’t just start pulling the crank and turning out ammunition. Indeed, the first 30 minutes or so is setting everything up and checking the specifications. Today, for example, I had to increase the powder throw even though it was the same as when I last used the machine. Today was considerably warmer and, I assume, parts change size with the temperature. The throw had to be adjusted back up to the 3.8 grains I wanted.

And, in checking everything over, I found that the lock nut on the crimp die had worked loose. That had to be not only tightened, but then a test round made and measured and then the die adjusted, another test round made and then re-measured as well. And when all that was done, there were test rounds to be disassembled. Sure I could do that later but, nonetheless, it’s part of the time required to reload. It counts.

And at the end of the run. the leftover powder had to be removed and locked up. We have two grandchildren that run around here from time to time. The dangerous stuff has to be locked up every time. No excuses.

Normally the same “lock it up” would also be true of the primers but, with this run, I used them all up. [I just emailed Don, one of the club's shooters who buys in bulk for club members, and asked if he had a sleeve of WLPs to sell and whether or not he could bring it to the 2700 on Sunday.]

Then, of course, the reloaded ammunition then has to be boxed, 50 per, and labelled with the date and load specifications so that, if something is later found to be wrong with the batch, it can all be identified.

Without the breaks and dinner, and subtracting the setup and cleanup, I was probably pulling the crank for two or three hours. That puts my production rate at 300 to 500 an hour, still below Dillon’s published rate for the 650.

But, you see, I’m not trying to beat the clock. This isn’t a race.

Instead, I’m trying to produce a very high quality round and in a very consistent manner. Bullseye shooters need good technique, yes, but they also need to do it in a highly repeatable manner. The ammunition needs to have those same qualities, accuracy and repeatability.

So when my production for five hours work is 1,000 rounds, that’s 1,000 rounds with a quality very close to if not better than what the major manufacturers achieve. More importantly, it’s the precise load that my wad gun shoots very accurately. The commercial manufacturers don’t make “my load.”





Crimp = 0.4695″

(within tolerance)

I do.

Reloading, if it weren’t for all the details that need to be monitored, could be very boring. But because a shell with too little powder is just as dangerous as one with too much — the former can leave a bullet stuck in the barrel which is then struck by the next bullet if you don’t catch it and wrecks the barrel, and the latter pretty much destroys the barrel too and possibly hurts the shooter — so there’s a lot to be watched on each and every round. I have all the Dillon bells and whistles for the available safety checks but I also look into each shell and eyeball the amount of powder before setting the bullet on top.

But it’s only fair to add that I enjoy shooting more than reloading.

Bullseye shooters reload for one reason — they can make the ammunition that’s absolutely the best for each of their guns and for each of the distances they need to shoot. Many have one load for the short line, 25 yards, and a different one for the long line, 50 yards. My shooting isn’t good enough to require that fine a tuning so I “get by” with the same load for both.

Shooters often start reloading thinking they will save money. And it is true that reloaded ammunition is significantly less expensive than what can be purchased in the store. My wad loads cost me about a dime each, mostly for the bullet. The brass gets used over and over so it becomes essentially free, and the cost of the powder and the primer are only a couple of cents. Commercially manufactured ammunition will, depending on brand and quality, cost 35 to 50 cents per bang, 3-5 times as much as my cost. Of course, I’m doing the labor and that “cost” should be factored in except I enjoy it so it’s more a labor of love than a chore.

And there’s the initial investment, too. Quality reloading equipment is, well, you get what you pay for. I have the best equipment for hobby reloaders, and I’ve added almost all of the optional features especially those for safety, and I’m very pleased with what I’ve got.

I initially rationalized that the savings would pay for the equipment. I estimated it would take about a year for that to happen.

But I forgot the human element because, while it is cheaper to reload, shooters soon find that with the availability of more economical ammunition, they shoot more.

In the final analysis, most shooters shoot as much as they can afford. They have X dollars per month that can be spent on shooting and if they reload, those dollars make more rounds of ammunition available during the month.

And that’s certainly been true for me.

So, do I save money by reloading?

That depends on how you measure it.

If it’s dollars per month, then the answer is “No” because I’m spending, over the year, just about the same as when I used to purchase pre-made ammunition at the store. I just didn’t shoot as much.

On the other hand, if you measure potential savings in “cents per round” and amortize the cost of the equipment over a year or so, then “Yes”, reloading does save money.

But again, the “human element” has to be factored in.

You see, my reloaded ammunition seems even cheaper because I buy the raw parts in bulk, and most significantly, rarely.





OAL = 1.240″

(OverAll Length)

For example, when I buy 5,000 bullets for nearly $400, you can bet I feel the draft as that money flies out of my wallet but when I then put those ten boxes in the storage cabinet and wait a month, the pain of that expense is soon forgotten. Indeed after a month or so, those bullets are still just sitting in my storage cabinet along with all the other “stuff” that’s been there, some of it for years. And I don’t have to spend a cent to use any of that stuff. It’s all just sitting there waiting for me.

The same thing happens with primers purchased a sleeve at a time (I don’t remember if that’s 5,000 or 10,000) and powder bought eight pounds at a time. By the time I get around to using those supplies, I will have forgotten the expense.

I don’t shoot nearly as much as I would like. Indeed, if I could shoot more often, I’d progress up the ranks of the NRA rating system much faster. But, alas, my work simply doesn’t allow me to do that.

Today’s 1,000 rounds will last me anywhere from two to four months depending on whether I’m able to work in some practice and competitions with my business travels. And because most of my travel is to the northeast part of the US where shooters move to indoor ranges for the winter, most of those ranges permit only 22 caliber ammunition so today’s 45 ACP wad reloads may last even longer (because I won’t be able to shoot it).

Regardless, I’d like to work in another day of reloading before work resumes on the 5th when I fly to Houston for the week, back for a week, then round out the month with Houston again followed by Long Island. (I haven’t found any Bullseye in either location so, other than the one week here, I may do very little shooting in January.)

But by the time February rolls around, all this ammunition will be “free”.

Hooray, free ammo!

Martindale Gauge





Martindale Gauge

If you reload 45 ACP for automatics (but not necessarily for revolvers), you need one of these gauges from Bruce Martindale (kingsarcher2@yahoo.com). It’s basically a bored-out nut — made on a precision lathe — and you pass all your brass through it before reloading.

If the brass passes, reload it. If it won’t, chuck it.

Fired brass is subject to some interesting ills.

First, every time a gun such as the model 1911 is fired, the slide is propelled backward, pushed by the rim (bottom) of the shell. Over time, this causes the solid brass rim to “squish out” and increase in diameter. Eventually, the rim will be too large to fit under the extractor and the gun will jam with a partially fed round. Similarly, the extractor “hook” may nick and slightly draw-out the area it contacts.

Most so-called “full length” resizing cannot correct this problem. “Roll resizers” may do better but such machines are usually the domain of commercial reloaders who can afford the larger investment required.

Next, in some guns such as the Glock in 45 ACP, it is thought by some that the slide’s rearward movement begins while a substantial pressure still exists in the shell and, coupled with the different chamber end found in that gun, the brass in that area is given a bulge that stresses the brass beyond its ability to recover.

“… the unsupported region of the chamber [is] a fact of life in any automatic but much worse in some types of guns.” Bruce Martindale, personal email, November 24, 2008.

Although full-length resizing may temporarily compress such brass back into tolerance, the shell has been overstressed and will not “spring back” correctly after firing ever again. Worse, if during reloading the brass expands in the later stages after resizing, it will be left “fat” and may be too large to fit into the gun’s chamber. A jam will result. This type of failure can also arise from overuse, overloads, weak brass or a bulged or oversized chamber.

Bruce adds a warning about re-using such brass.

“… it is possible for bulged brass to fail (burst) if reused in a gun with inadequate chamber support. True it is a bit ‘broad in the beam’ but it may still chamber, with no indication of the upcoming failure or if it doesn’t fully chamber, it can burst if the gun is capable of firing out of battery.” (Same email.)

Bottom line: Bulged brass and hammered out rims are bad, even dangerous.

When I first started reloading 45 ACP, I became a “range scavenger”. If anyone near me was shooting that size and they weren’t picking up their brass, I’d ask if I could have it. The answer was almost always, “Yes,” and brother, did I think I was getting a deal.

Fast forward a couple of months and you’d see me dealing with jams and misfeeds about once every 20 rounds or so.

Fast forward again and you would see me in the garage running all my brass, shell by shell, through the newly acquired “Martindale Gauge” — and discarding almost 30%. (Glocks were, and probably still are, very popular at the range I was using at that time.)

And then fast forward and look, and forward to look again, and fast forward again and again and you won’t see a single jam in my admittedly tight-chambered wadder.

Bruce’s directions will give you the details but the process goes basically like this:

  1. Clean the fired brass as usual, then
  2. Mouth first, drop each piece of brass through the Martindale Gauge and, if it won’t go through easily, reject it.

Bruce makes his gauges for a nominal fee on an irregular basis. You’ll need to email him to get “on the list”. He can be reached at kingsarcher2@yahoo.com.

And tell him I said, “Thanks!”